Central Asia Journal No. 66

The Pamirs
by Earl of Dunmore
(Source Review)

Dr. Mohammad Anwar Khan*

The travelogue by a British aristocrat spread over a year undertaken both on the horseback and on foot through India via Kashmir, Tibet, Chinese and Russian Turkistan is a fascinating account for a knowledge seeker of the area known for calamitous happenings. The work is in two volumes spread over (360+340) 700 pages. It is a reprint of John Murray London publication of 1893. Exactly a century later in 1993 Vipin Jain for Vintage Books Gurgaon (Haryana) reproduced it in India. The publisher erroneously claims that the book was first published in 1885, though the journey was initiated later on February 12, 1892. The publisher or its printer (Efficient offset Printers New Delhi) also make another blunder by placing parts of chapters XVI pages 203-16, XVII 217-18, and chapter XVIII of volume I in volume II and vice-versa. Similarly the off print of the work is substandard.
The author Charles Adolphus Murray the 7th Earl of Dunmore (l. 1841-1907) a peerish family hailing from Scotland derives its label after the county of Dunmore. The fourth earl of the family had held executive positions of governors of New York and Virginia in 1770-72 followed by period of American War of Independence (1775-83), and later held similar position in Bahamas 1787-96.
Charles Adolphus Murray, the 7th Earl of Dunmore, a conservative politician himself was well-established, had lived in Canada, travelled most parts of the world, including Turkey and Arabia and was familiar with some of the Oriental, French, Russian languages and even conversant in Hindustani. There is general belief in known records that he carried a secret mission in journeying this less known hazardous part of the world.
British interest in northeastern borders of Afghanistan bulging into Kashgharia or Eastern Turkistan were prompted after Russia became the possessor of Bokhara. Its eastern region convexed into Kashgharia which bordered Kashmir of India. The British Parliament and its public watched with alarm Russian growth in the area. An earlier report in 1862 by R. H. Davies an official of the government in India had urged building politico-economic ties with the area. Reports from Trigonometrical survey of India on the route and region during the subsequent years were also reads with interest in the British official circles.
Douglas Forsyth, a British Indian civil servant visited Kashghar twice 1870 and 1874 and entered into trade ties with Yaqub Beg a soldier of fortune from Khokand (eastern Bokhara) who had liberated the area from Chinese control. The Manchu, ruling house of China who had retaken Kashghar failed to assert its authority against advancing Russia in Turkistan where it was gradually extending its trade and authority. This, to British policy makers, posed a perennial threat to the Indian outer flanks in the extreme northeast.
Afghanistan had undefined and flexible boundaries on all around its borders. The Durand Line (1893) had not yet been laid down with India. The area of Wakhan lay loose on the border and provided an easy entry to hostile forces inside Gilget Baltistan region. Dunmore’s visit to the area therefore makes sense in a way, though the author does not smacks of it anywhere in its writings, except noticing the Wakhan land in deplorable political anarchy.
The journey, to talk of the book, started on February 12, 1892, from India, evading England and finished reaching Constantinople on February 15, 1893: a fatiguing narration for a period over a year.
The account of the journey is spread over 38 chapters of two volume book based on author’s reports in his daily recording of the tour diary date-wise on start of landing in Karachi on February 12, 1892 and movement towards Rawalpindi by train.
Henry Lansdowne was the viceroy (1888-94) in India and Robert Salisbury was holding second term of Premiership (1888-94) in England. At Pindi Dunmore fell from a pony, fractured a rib and fell on heeling bed. Here he met many men from Hunza, Nagar, Gilgat, Punyal and persons from the Pathan borderland enriching his knowhow on the area. Here also he met an army officer Major Roche, of 3rd Dragoon Guards who wished to accompany him on the Pamir journey. A Chinese visa through the government of India, Dunmore obtained for the journey beyond Kashmir land. Russian visa he carried from home. On recovery he dashed a visit to Peshawar, where he visited a posh European model cantonment area and the Khyber Pass in April. While in Peshawar, Dunmore also visited the city and purchased 180 Bokharan tilas and 100 Russian half imperials paying 11£. 6s and 12d for a Bokharan and Rs 12 and 10 annas for a Russian coin.
Journey towards Pamir started from Murree where Dunmore party reached by Tangas and he himself by foot. From Murree onward they entered the Kashmir valley then in control of Dogra Maharaja Partab Singh (r 1885-1925). Srinagar bazaar, Dunmore found surprisingly inexpensive purchasing a sheep for 3½ Indian rupees and a cane of honey for one rupee. It was here in Kashmir that Dunmore decided to prepare the wherewithal for the journey beyond Kashmir forming up a caravan comprising initially 19 local men or attendants and 20 ponies, which remained varying as per requirement of the journey. The caravan was fitted to carry its own food and forage, tents, utensils and medicines. Rivers, mountains, bridges and deserts of the area are mentioned in details, along with history of important settlements in the diaries maintained by the author. Dunmore was a fine water-colour sketch painter and all significant buildings, stupas, mountains and lakes portrayed in the book are his own efforts. Roche added some photography to it. Zojilan pass, Dras, Kargil, rivers Sindh and Jehlum with their sources find place in narration of the journey in chapter 7 of volume I, before entering Lakakh which essentially was a Budhist city and formed earlier part of Tibet under the Lamas. River Indus roared around here and Dunmore caravan entered Leh at the closing week of May, 1892. Dunmore bought some more ponies here for around Rs. 40/- each which he thought could fetch good price in Turkistan. Some yaks were also purchased as they were fine beasts for burden in mountainous terrain. Fire wood, they learnt should form absolute part of luggage and ample provision was made thereof. The party attended every accessible social event of the travel area including Budhist weddings, music, religious ceremonies and sport events. An excellent account of Budhist rituals, family formation and social order is available in chapters 9-11 of the travelogue. The caravan thenceforth had been travelling in the region of Karakorum and western Himalayas and was embarking upon the region of Pamir with 70 loaded yaks and 56 ponies, some loaded others free with a party of 30 men plus 2 officers facing Kardong pass known for its cliffness rising over 16000 feet height. Camping at night usually would fall at places which suited tent installation and possibly close to water facilities. It had started snowing and often caused breathing problem. Dunmore carried height and cold measuring instruments and regularly recorded them and made them part of his diary. Each area had rivers known after the settlement which formed part of the big river system mostly Indus or Jehlum moving towards Gilgat or Kashmir. Hunting and shooting formed regular part of Dunmore and Roche routines as and when available, and local birds, hares etc were part of the prey. The campings at many points were over height beyond seventeen thousand with scarcity of water and difficulties of heating facilities. Ice provided both drinking and cooking water in the region connecting Karakorum with Pamir. An early autumn in the area presented diverse season, daytime desert touching highest temperature and the night altitude falling into below zero cold bringing abnormalities in both human and animal bodies. Dunmore doctored men with his lone available quinine tablets while Roche served veterinary to ponies and yaks. In around the Moorgha area in Karakorum on road to Yarkand the party came across a custoora (musk) deer in a desert, followed by an upward hilly system rising above 18000 feet, which is called “roof of Asia.” Tibetan antelopes were visible in the valley around. This is an area where Himalaya-Karakorum and Pamir meet, is called the Pamir knot and also carries roof title (18980-19300 feet). The only living things seen here were ravens and butterflies. Karakorum river finds its bed here. Down below was greenery visible in plenty. The area in the bed of the mountain is breezy and mostly rainy and the party headed for Aktagh on the bank of Yarkand river and onward to the Chinese land. Travel difficulties arose when many of the seasonal rivulets, short of bridges were crossed either riding the ponies or dragging them. Shahidula was the entry point from the Indian side into Chinese Turkistan. Here a garrisioned fort looked after the entry and exit of passengers. Dunmore party after clearing with the entry formalities and borrowing food and forage items proceeded in July towards Yarkand. The journey passed through nomad Kirghiz population who were most hospitable, friendly and accommodating. Fresh fruit and sheep were presented to the visitors all along their passage and in return they repaid them in cash and some small gifts etc. Sanju, Kichik, Ilaq, Poski,, Salghuz, Langue, Oi-taghragk, Borah and Kargalik were the settlements falling on their way. At Kargalik, the Chinese Amban, the area administration chief met them and acquainted himself with the purpose of the mission. In early August, the party entered Yarkand which they found an impressive city, having five entry gates, named Altun (golden), Kawngat (melon), Serabagh (tree garden), Masci (jester) and Khankah (monastery) Darwaza. A short history of Yarkand and its bazaars is given along with a meeting the Ambaan. The courtesy extended by the Chinese authorities to the party was appreciated. Dunmore also details in here the life story of Yaqub Beg the earlier area ruler and his successors and ultimate emergence of Chinese rule, which he calls oppressive. The life at Yarkand and story of the adjoining new city Yangi Shehr is also given. Dunmore also learnt that some border skirmishes had taken place between the Chinese and Russian forces in the west at Aktash and the city had fallen to the Russians in the Pamir region.
Pamir it may stated here is a pure Turkistani mountain system, rising in eastern Bokhara (Tajakistan) interconnecting Takhtkal mountain system in the north-west to the Hindukush in Badakhshan area of Afghanistan onward in the south-east to Karakorum on to Tian Shen in the north to the Kunlun and Himalaya system in the extreme east.
The Chinese hearing troubles in west sent reinforcement to the western borders. Dunmore party in late August moved north-eastward towards Tashkurgan the Kashghar border city with Afghan area of Wakhan. Sarikol, Mintaka passes all lead to Wakhan from Tashkurgan. The Sarikolians, Dunmore noted were Shias and believed in many Imams (Agha Khanis). The people are not Kirghiz, but called Sart or Tajik and are spread over all parts of Wakhan. A detailed history of the region, its people and their customs are detailed in chapter 26 of the book. The party followed Khunjrab river direction wherefrom entry to Wakhan via Mintaka and Kokturk was easy. It was on the bank of Kokturk river they established their caravan camp on September 6, 1892. Pamir, and its Ovis Poli, could be discovered and learnt about here. Ovis Poli mentioned by Morco Polo is a horned deer, called sheep by Polo. The winter had set in, the hills were getting snowy and search of the peaks and measurement was getting a difficult job. Dunmore moved his personal camp up in the hill at height over 15000 feet to watch animal movement at night and kill hill’s esoteric animal for record.                   
The Ovis Poli rams resided close to the glacier and therefore he had to move up with his gun and men for this purpose. The first hunt on September 11, was a large Ovis Poli or Galias as Kirghiz call it weighing over 20 stones and was carried by a yak to the base camp. Efforts continued for more hunt, till two more were added during the rest of September.
Dunmore learnt here that Hunza had been tributary to China and it was now the British substitution thereof that Chinese hold was cut off. Macartney the British resident at Kashghar arrived at this time and asked Dunmore to accompany him to explore the Kilik Pass in the Hindukush. It was also learnt at this time that the Russian had withdrawn from Aktash after demolishing the Chinese fort and skirmished with the Afghan soldiery also at Sarmtash where many casualties took place.
Weather had considerably changed by early October in and around Wakhan corridor. The game animal in the mountain was disappearing and were retreating to their hideouts mostly avoiding the glacier zones. Bears, jackals and other wild animals however were seen out on their hunts. Dunmore during this period mainly was looking for Ovis Poli in the easterly portion of the Pamir called Little Pamir. He already had killed three, wounded two and missed one. This to him was enough under the circumstances.
On 9th of October 1892 hunting game over, Dunmore decided to wind up the work and proceed for the Russian Turkistan across the Chinese border. Crossing in sort of no man’s land which Dunmore thought was Russian land in Aktash Pass at 16370 feet height, where lay the Victoria Lake (Gaz Kul, Zor kul or Sari Kol) wherefrom Amu Darya rises. Bellow it was situated another lake called Chakmaktin, which constituted the Murghab river. John Wood a British explorer had discovered it in 1838 and was named after Victoria, the British queen sometimes later.
Chapter 30 of the book gives history of the Kirghiz of the Pamir region. Its details are rich in information as they are based on local information and still significant in many ways. The party as it planned intended leaving the Chinese area to study life and positions in middle and upper Pamir which lay in the Russian domain of occupation. Dunmore assessment of the Chinese position in this part of the border was very disappointing; it all lay on the mercy of the Russians where they could change the borders and outposts at their liking. The return movement of Dunmore was via Wakhjir Pass, he frontier station for the Chinese-Afghan border, also close to the Indian (Hunza or Kanjut) border. Here the Akbilis river formed the divide line between the Afghan-India land. Earlier British exploration in this part of the world under Captain Younghusband and Captain Trotter and later Littledale had failed to answer many querries. On return Dunmore visited the Bozai Gumbaz, wherefrom the Sarhat river rises, also called Aksu, Okuz or Oxus. Lake after lake followed the party on ascending the mountain here. Cold had gripped the hills and almost everyone was suffering from cold, nose bleeding and muscle pains besides a few feverish. The party in retreat formation erroneously entered the Russian border in Murghalis area around Rang Kul, were received well and moved back to the Chinese position through the Ak-Birdi pass and Taghdumbash area. This was about the close of November 1892, complete winter had set in when they returned to Kashghar.
Chapter 35 of the book gives an interesting account of history and prominence of Kashghar in Central Asian land. The Chinese welcome at Kashghar was well received by Dunmore and his group. Dunmore accompanied by some servants left for the Russian land while Roche and others departed for India on December 13. Entering the Zong border Dunmore headed towards Chaksu, wherefrom he was escorted by Russian Cossacks via Alai mountains to Osh, Gulcha, Marghilan, Khokand, Khojand and finally Tashkand. Dunmore was extended befitting reception all along his stay in the Russian land, and he least bothered to enquire about the Pamir. The history and the running formation of Russian Turkistan had been fairly treated in the closing chapters of the book in vol. 2. Dunmore intended to proceed via Persia and the Gulf route to Karachi, but heavy winter snow beyond Merv, forced him to resort for the Caspian service to Baku on February 7, 1893, wherefrom a Black Sea steamer took him to Constantinople and onward on February 15 to Europe.
Dunmore’s is a hazardous journey extended over a year from 12th February 1892 when he landed in Karachi to the 15th of February 1893 reaching Constantinople. Dunmore was fifty one when he started this expedition and travelled over more or less 3000 miles of the earth surface (excluding sea voyage), including 2200 miles “over the wildest country imaginable and over forty one mountain passes, some of them amongst the highest in the world” in his own words.
Real objectives of Dunmore’s expedition, the expenses incurred and judgment formed upon can not be ascertained from the book under reference. If Pamir was the subject of study its glare lay in the western region in eastern Bokhara, Khokand or modern Tajikistan, where it was acclaimed for its peaks beauty, discovered by Russian explorers. The Stalin or Communism now called Ismail Samani peak rising to 24590 ft or the one highest of all the Kongur in Kashghar with 25, 325 ft remain untouched in the book.
Dunmore confined itself to the areas of Pamir the Chinese Congling (Onion Peak) and the Indian region. Notable point is the British interest then defining the Durand Line with Afghanistan (1893) and the Afghan Wakhan border with China (1895-96). Wakhan was spilling into Russian Bokhara and the Russian presence could send ripples on the British defence planning in the north eastern outer flanks of India. Perhaps, Dunmore was sent incognito to ascertain the geo-political dimension of the region, yet correct story could emerge only after looking into corresponding archival material in UK.

Supporting Sources:

1. Electronic:
2. http/thepeerage.com/p1794.htm
3. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_Murray,_7th_Earl_of_Dunmore

1. Printed:
2. Adamec Ludwig W, Historical Dictionary of Afghanistan: entry, Pamir. London 1991.
3. “Central Asia” Journal of Area Study Centre, University of Peshawar, No. 45, The Land and People of Central Asia (Geographical Survey), headingPamir, pp 40-41, by Khan, Mohammad Anwar.
4. Khan, Mohammad Anwar, England, Russia and Central Asia. Peshawar, 1963. Chapter V “Restoration of British Influence 1869-1873, pp 129-180.

d.   Help and assistance received from Dr. Shabir Ahmad and Mr. Abdullah Beg, my two colleagues in the Centre in searching out electronic sources are gratefully acknowledged.