BOOK REVIEW

LAHORE TO YARKAND
BY
GEORGE HENDERSON & ALLAN O. HUME

Dr. Mohammad Anwar Khan*

This is the outer (cover) title of the book. The inside title (flying leaf) of the book entitles it “Lahore to Yarkand, Incidents of the Route And Natural History of the Countries Traversed By the Expedition of 1870 under T.D. Forsyth,” By George Henderson and Allan O. Hume.
Earlier data on the publication etc. is not given on the book which I am using, except that it was reprinted in 1981 at Lahore by Sang-e-Meel Publications. Henderson was the medical officer and officiating superintendent of the Botanical Gardens, Calcutta and Hume Secretary to the Government of India in the Department of Agriculture and Commerce. Hume (L 1829-1912) earned later prominence in India, as the founder of the All Indian National Congress in 1885 and serving its secretary for 22 years. Thomas Douglas Forsyth (L 1827-1886) then commissioner of Jallandhar Division in Punjab, was good at learning Oriental languages, entered East India Company, served in northern Punjab, and developed interest to promote British trade with Central Asia, particularly through Kashmir-Kashghar, as it could open conducive outlet for markets with China and Russia and received his governmental approval thereupon (for details see my work “England, Russia and Central Asia 1857-78: Peshawar 1963). Dr. Henderson, was then the medical officer in Lahore and had interest in flora, while Hume though a civil servant was a budding ornithologist. Both were included in the group beside Robert Barkley Shaw (L 1839-78) a tea planter in the Kangra valley who had visited Kashghar in 1868, met its ruler Yaqub Beg who was keen on developing commercial and political ties with British India. This and other indications1 encouraged Forsyth to set out on a mission to Kashghar.
The mission, as I call it, did not gather and start from a single location in India, nor the final strength of the group is mentioned anywhere in the book. However, it was summer (May) 1870 that Forsyth and his party set out from Jallandhar. Henderson followed them from Lahore. Advance groups and individuals had been sent to assess the politico-social environment of the area. Faiz Bakhsh, a resident of Lahore, formed the frontman proceeding to Kashghar via Kabul and Badakhshan. He had earlier visited this area and was well-versed in local affairs. Maharaja of Kashmir was knotted into a treaty agreement with the British government to allow transit trade facilities in his state on Kashmir-India trade route reducing previous heavy duty on Kashghari commodities to a maximum of five percent. A Kashghari envoy Mirza Shadi had arrived same year in India, the government availing his presence gathered most that was required on his land and people and was advised to hurry back in assisting the British mission in its journey programme.
The mission in fact was programmed to visit the city of Kashghar, capital of the state then controlled by Yaqub Beg, a Khokandi soldier of fortune, who had wrested north-western and eastern portions of Kashgharia or Eastern Turkistan later known Sinkiang (Xinjiang). Some major cities of the area Kashghar, Yangi Hissar, Khotan, Turfan and Yarkand were held by him. Since Yaqub Beg was absent quelling a rising in the north, the mission only confined itself to Yarkand, the first major city of Kashgharia and thus the book mostly attempted by George Henderson was given the title of “Lahore to Yarkand.” The book is divided into three parts. Part I called NARRATIVE written by Henderson. Part II is ORNITHOLOGY contributed by Hume and Part III METEOROLOGY recorded by Henderson, formalized by R. Scott of the Trade Meteorological office, India.
Since the main author of the book is Henderson the story of the travel surrounds him. He left Lahore on May 12, 1870 via Sialkot to Jammu, where he called on the Maharaja of Kashmir (Ranbir Singh) and here he chalked out the plan of journey into six stages, stretching roughly over 1012 miles for 69 days from Jammu to Yarkand exclusive of halting period. Total marches were 69 and had to be covered from one halting station to another. Local traders conducted this journey in seasonal breaks, proceeding in one and returning the following. From Jammu to Banihal within Kashmir limits, about 106 miles was a nine stage (day) journey.
Leaving Jammu on May 15, Henderson was keen to reach Banihal where Forsyth was awaiting him with a sick person of his entourage. A caravanserai at each halting station at about ten miles distance was available all along where a traveler and his mules could rest for the night and find food and forage. Dansal, Krimchi, Mir, Lura Lari, Balot, Rumsu and finally Banihal reaching on May 23.
The second stage of the journey from Banihal in the south of Kashmir to Zoji La Pass, about 144 miles with 9 days or stops journey. Banihal forms part of the Kashmir state, is a pass situated at a height of 9000 ft. Weather here was cold and stormy, descending next day in the third stage of journey to Varnag, which carried fine state guest houses and a majestic lake emptying in river Jehlum, followed by Achibal, Islamabad, crossing Jehlum river by boat to Srinagar. Boats serving here were spacious, cosy and known for excellent on water kitchen service. Srinagar is 5200 ft. high from the sea level and necessary equipment and road data were collected here. Forsyth’s secretary Mir Akbar Ali joined the mission here. Mir Shadi was awaited but he was moving slow: Hayward, a British explorer, joined them at Srinagar and Shaw at Leh. Temperature at Srinagar was around 50 Forenheight at night rising to 70 Forenheight in daytime. News came of disturbance in Kashgharia and Forsyth sent another agent Ibrahim Khan to proceed promptly onward to ascertain situation. Henderson had in his servants a Pathan Mohammad Yasin, a linguist who knew couple of the area languages. Abdullah, a Bangali, was a bird-stuffer collecting the area avifauna. At Srinagar, the party was coincidently joined by Qazi Yaqub, a nephew of Yaqub Beg (Ataliq Ghazi) the ruler of Kashghar accompanied by an Arab scholar named Khalil both heading for Kashghar.
Next step was Gandarbal, and it was mid June by now: followed by Kangan, reaching Sonamerg on June 18 where the party met by the Kashghari envoy (Mirza Shadi) moving onward to Baltal.
The forth stage led them to Ladakh, with movement on June 20, crossing Zoji-la (La in Tibtan means pass) situated at a height of 11000 ft. Snow and barrenness surrounded the atmosphere, and down below the Dras river was running with gushing flow. Marmots were available all along till the Sanju Pass. Zoji-la was a difficult crossing between Kashmir and Leh. The public presented a Tatari look here, mostly Buddhists, with many Muslims also who reportedly had a mosque at Kargil. Poverty surrounded the public all along this region from Tashgan to Dras. From Dras river, the party passed Kirkichu, and entered the area of Kargil river and finally Kargil on June 25. Kargil was headquarter of the district. At Paskyum they noticed a Buddhist monastery and Buddhist monks, then a colossal stupa of Buddha at Karbu, and proceeding on their journey, the party crossed Namyika Pass reaching 12000 ft: This was followed by another pass (Fotala) about 14000 ft. high, down below the area of Lama Yuru, which had a large monastery with around a hundred monks and nuns. Polyandry prevailed here, with a common wife to many brothers. June 29, the party reached Nurla. The Indus was visible here called Senge Tsangpo (the lion river) and the journey continued through the river bank and thereby reaching Leh on July 2nd. The traveling party strength is mentioned here numbering sixty men and 130 animals. Nomad Tibetans with their flocks were noticeable around with their watch dogs. Ladakhis drink barley beer, tea, and eat fresh and dry fruit besides wheat and barley or millet breads. Rain rarely it was learnt, fell in Ladakh and water to the valley came from its snow clad mountains.
Fifth portion of the journey started from Chagra on July 15, crossing the Masimik Pass (18,800 ft.), posing a difficult ascent, noticing tailless rats during this journey. Henderson noticed now that Tibetan servants with them slept mostly in open at night, in sitting posture, all huddled together against an artificially built stone wall, all clad in very thick woolen dress. All emitted dirty smell as they never changed their dresses: neither they washed ever: they neither complained of any problem nor any one was found sick. A complete desert journey awaited them from Pamtzil onward after July 17, moving through localities of Gokra, Gnischu, Lingzi-Thang, through Chang Chenmo river flowing in the desert area yet not a speck of grass was visible and the mules were subjected to severe hunger, bringing death to many animals and terrible weakness amongst men till reaching Lak Zung on July 22, which offered both food, water and grass for consumption. Reinforcement of food and fodder both from Kashmir and Yarkand side brought more relief. Temperature at night in Lak Zung fell to 7 F. (height 17,500 ft.) and daytime mercury would bring sharp heat. The party reached Tarl Dat on July 25, at height of 16,500 ft, wherefrom Kunlun mountain icy top was visible, proceeding further on Lung Dung, followed by Karakash (Qarn Qash) valley and its river, bringing the ordeal to an end with an advice that yak served better than horse on this route.
The sixth part of the journey, moved through Karakash valley (15,600 ft.), through Khotan to Yarkand. The party moved on it (Langzi Thang plains) on July 30. Mirza Shadi joined them on this route with much needed food and forage. Public mostly was now Kirghiz, much neat, clean, handsome and courteous. The beasts of burden were hairy yaks black in colour. They passed through the jademines previously controlled and operated by the Chinese. At Balakchi they were entertained through a dastarkhan, profuse in food, fruit and sweet dishes. It was followed by similar welcoming gestures all along till Yarkand. The area of Shahidullah fell in between which sometime earlier was held by Kashmir and the party headed towards Sanju, the first proper border city of Kashghar. The state officials met them on the route to the city with hearty welcome, meeting also the Punjabi traders in Kitchak Yilak and inquired from them on the state of affairs onwards. Forsyth had been advised not to stay longer in the area if Yaqub Beg was not available. The villages or towns falling on the route were Tam, Zangria, Kizil Langar with two rivers Sanju and Arplak before reaching Sanju. Sanju presented a gorgeous look and hospitality to the visitors after fatiguing through deserts, mountains and annoying terrains. It was flowery around, green with well laid shady fruit trees and water streams. Food typical Kashghari with plenty of lamb meat, fresh fruit, rice, bread and rich in herb flavour, followed by ample cups of tea. Sanju was followed by Koshtak, Oi Tograk, Guma, Bora, Kargallik, Beshirak, Posgam, Yangibazaar, while they were warmly welcomed by the public in general and the state functionaries in particular. Henderson remained receiving local patients all along mostly goiter and cataract cases, in addition to his collection of the flora and fauna of the area.
August 23, 1870, the party reached Yarkand, amidst impressive reception. State men and the public thronged the entrance route while Mansur Khwaja, the Yarkandi Treasury Chief, welcomed them outside the city. The Yarkandi looked fair like Europeans while their armed forces were primitively fitted with clubs, spears and axes. Most houses were mud built in single story buildings. A human head probably criminal’s hanged on the wall of the fort. A spacious house with fashionable outfit was provided to the party with regular supply of ample eatables.
Forsyth was in a hurry to meet Mohammad Yunas, the governor (Dad Khwah) and to depart back to India, as Yaqub Beg was still on in the war zone. This ultimately took place next week (date not given) both sides exchanged gifts, courtesies extended: none carried authority to conduct political or commercial dialogues; therefore the matter did not go beyond ceremonial formalities. The party stayed for thirteen days in Yarkand and thus could not accomplish all that was desired of it. Forsyth, however, in 1873 revisited Kashgharia to materialize the project assigned to him.
Yarkand with approximate population of 60,000 persons was rich in streams and wells provided water to all men, mules and fields. Water power was used to run stampers, valves and wheels to clean and crush grain etc. Weather in Yarkand was pleasant in August-September, its height 3798-4398 ft (varying with the barometer used), rainfall scantly, and crops of all kind grown except sugar-cane: cotton, wheat and rice otherwise vegetable and fruits were noticed in abundance. Lucerne was chief fodder crop with tobacco largely cultivated. Animals mostly horses, ponies, sheep, camels and donkeys were visible. Horse flesh along with mutton were considered delicious food items. Poultry was abundantly brought up in rural areas. Yarkand river provided a variety of fish. Public all Mohammadans, slavery not visible and beggars were not much seen. Females were hardly noticeable in the urban area, though they were plenty in the village life. Tunga, the local currency was in circulation and four of them made a British shilling. The Tilla however fetched eleven shillings. The other coin in circulation was Kurus or Yambu, a silver currency carried as per its weight 5-16 shillings.
Yarkandi carpets, gold dust, silk and horses were demanded outside in India. Cloth, aniline dyes, tea, sugar, leather, opium and firearm were in demand in Yarkand. The area could provide an excellent market for British and Indian goods.
The party left Yarkand on September 5, 1870, moved through a varying route to Ladakh and Kashmir, the duration for which is not recorded in the work.
This all said above forms part I of the book attempted by George Henderson spread over 150 pages of the work. Part II covers more or less same space in the book (pages 153-304) on Ornithology that is the bird life by A.O. Hume covering story of 158 species out of which 59 species formed part of the Yarkand land, the rest shared and known in Kashmir, Ladakh etc. It also covers the area birds with chapter II on the insects.
Chapter III carries a list of 412 plants covering the area of Tibet and Yarkand out of which 214 were Yarkand specific. This is Henderson collection indexed by experts from Kew Harbarium London.
The book, though may not throw much light on much needed geo-political life of the area, yet it demonstrates the search for knowledge on the part of the expertise forming the structure of the group. Their contribution to flora and fauna undoubtedly make considerable contribution to human knowledge then scanty on the area. And this make the book as the primary source of information on more than one aspects of life beyond the borders of nineteenth century India into the valleys and combined mountainous belts of Himalayan-Karakuram-Kunlun region.